Between being completely freezing and laying on the rock-hard ground I didn’t get much sleep. Somehow the wet clothes I set out in my tent managed to get even more wet over the course of the evening as well. This made me very reticent to leave my tent even though I couldn’t sleep and was terribly uncomfortable. The upshot was the moon setting over the mountains was also gorgeous. And an even bigger win, one of my companions managed to scrounge up some coffee from some of the better provisioned folks about. That got me moving and we took a walk through the ruins and shot some photos of the sun coming up. We didn’t linger for long, though, and broke down the hike to begin the walk back. The return journey was much easier. Downhill obviously. We got more sketchy lunch in the ghost-town at the trail head and then headed back to the car. The best part was that the road was in much better shape today and we didn’t have to get out of the car constantly to make repairs before we could pass. We made a stop in Huaral where we ended up sitting in a little bodega drinking beer. After that it was just the long road back to Lima.
Author: Nomad
Day 289 | March 11
An early start to the day to shower and gather the few things that I can actually carry in the small pack I brought with me on my travels. I have no idea what to expect from this hike so I’ve skewed the things I’m bringing with me toward food and water so we don’t actually die. There are four of us on this expedition, three of us Remotes and one poor girl who literally landed coming in from Philly about midnight the night before. It’s a drive of several hours before we have to begin walking.
We stopped in the town of Huaral on the way. Lima, especially Miraflores, feels like a pretty modern city. Or at least a city on the way to being modern. Huaral, two hours north, is a totally different story. It felt like being back in Africa. Or better to say a cross between Africa and the outskirts of Mexico City.
From here we pressed on into the mountains and up. The ascent is all a dirt road which in decent conditions is another 90 minute drive. However, it’s currently the rainy season. So naturally the road is a complete wreck. A van of tourists in front of us ended up getting stuck so we did the hospitable thing and brazenly passed them, literally touched their car and left them for dead. Further on the road was washed out. But we had come too far to let a thing like that stop us so we got to work rebuilding it. Literally moving dirt and mud around with branches and rocks until we had graded things out enough to pass. We had to do this several more times. We finally made it to a small town where we were given some semi-questionable rice and chicken for lunch.
From here we transitioned to hiking. This was a gorgeous, surreal hike. Everything is incredibly green, you’re walking on the side of pretty dramatic cliffs and the clouds are so tight around you that you can’t see maybe 50 yards. Midway through it started raining hard so we were soaked even despite having ponchos. We finally made it to the top but without the exertion it got cold very quickly. We tried to start a fire but it was so wet that we couldn’t even get tissues or toilet paper to burn as kindling. At this point I was shaking violently but then the sun started to set and it was all worth while. It was easily the most amazing sunset I’d ever seen. Clouds below us in the valley accenting the peaks all lit up orange as the sun hit them, and there was a rainbow behind us over the peaks above us. Unable to get a fire going and still freezing we “went to sleep” early. It’s a real testament to how old I’ve gotten that I was so uncomfortable sleeping on the ground. I don’t think I got more than 20 minutes of sleep at any one time that night.
Day 288 | March 10
A hectic day today. Tomorrow we are heading out at the crack of dawn to hike up to Rupac which is the site of (I believe) the best preserved Incan ruins in Peru. I decided to head over to Homemade for breakfast and to work for a bit but their WiFi wasn’t up to the task, plus breakfast was underwhelming… On my way over to the work space I recalled that two of my very few articles of clothing had been ruined the night before so I swung through Larcomar to look for replacements. Despite just being a mall, this is a pretty cool place. It’s built down into the cliffs of Lima overlooking the ocean with a park on top. I quickly got annoyed with shopping, though, so I gave up and headed to the office. I worked for a while and then broke for lunch at Trattoria Don Vito. This is kind of a cute place. It had decently good food but it tries to be way classier of a joint than it actually is. I headed back to work but got a wee bit distracted by a happy hour invitation. So, ended up at this Irish pub, Houlihan’s which was a surprisingly decent representation of an Irish Pub. In Lima there is (for some reason) this place called “Calle de Pizzas” or Pizza Street which is a little pedestrian block full of places that sell, yes pizza, but also a weird combination of Peruvian cuisine. Some other folks were having pizza there so we turned up for that. And then naturally we had to have an after dinner drink at The Old Pub, an English themed place on that same street. All in all it’s exactly what you want before an early morning and a tough hike.
Day 287 | March 9
Sad to say that I stopped by Starbucks on the way into the work space this morning. But, I will say this for the American chains around the world. It’s always interesting to see the local twists that they add to the menu. Worked for most of the day and then walked over to BarBarian to have some beers with another Remote. It’s a cool place, typical craft beer joint playing excellent American music. You’d never know you left the States. I still had work to do so headed home in the evening to take care of that.
Day 286 | March 8
Managed to make it over to our work space for some productivity today and boy… was I glad I did. For reasons passing understanding a bunch of people came in at one point, shouted a bunch of stuff in Spanish I couldn’t understand and then gave each one of us an entire box of Krispy Kreme doughnuts. So that was a pleasant surprise. I resisted the urge to live entirely off of those for the day and had lunch at Madam Tusan’s. Some of the better Chinese food I’d had since leaving the U.S. but not overwhelming. In the evening some other Remotes had some folks over to their place as they have a gorgeous rooftop and grill situation. It wasn’t all fun and games, though! Sadly, during some fun and games all the clothes I was wearing were destroyed. So… guess I’ll have to go shopping again which I always hate.
Day 285 | March 7
The plan for the day went off the rails unusually quickly. I started doing some work and before I knew it the day was mostly over. Broke for lunch and went to this deli by my place, La Gastronoma. Much more high-end than I thought it would be and a nice spot for a sandwich. In the evening a whole pack of us went for a bike ride around Lima and then stopped for lunch in Parque Melitón Porras.
Day 284 | March 6
First actual working day in Lima. Started the day by heading over to Caficulto to get my caffeine fix and do some work. It’s a nice little place, more importantly they were playing some great blues when I was in there. They didn’t have what I was looking for on the food front, however, so went over to Pastelería San Antonio with a fellow remote for lunch. Also a good place but (yes, I know Clarke) nothing to write home about. Went over to check out our work space this month. It’s not as “cool” as some of the others but the space itself is really nice. It also features free coffee and *gasp* air conditioning so I imagine I’ll be spending a lot of time there this month. The big event of the day was dinner at Restaurante Central, 4th ranked restaurant in the world. Their approach to the tasting menu is really novel, featuring courses from different elevations and ecosystems all through Peru. And they give you a gorgeous art book at the end that features everything you ate over the course of the evening. All that being said, I was a little underwhelmed. Still worth going for the experience, though, I’d say.
Day 283 | March 5
Started my time in Lima the way I start most cities; wandering the streets aimlessly. My expectations for Lima were pretty low. Most people I had talked to said Peru was great but that Lima… kind of sucked. Apart from the downright oppressive weather I’m really liking the city. One of my roommates and I stopped in at a coffee shop on our corner, Kaldi’s Coffee, and then strolled around Miraflores. It’s got a great central park area, a lot of people were out and about, there seemed to be a lot of good restaurants and cafes around. And it’s just a couple of blocks off the beach. We walked up to La Mar Cebichería for lunch with was killer good. Came home in the afternoon to escape the heat and then in the evening walked over to Faro de la Marina to watch the sunset with everyone. This was just gorgeous. Oh, and I saw the coolest thing I’ve seen in all my travels… a skateboarding dog! Afterwards some of us went for sushi at Makoto and then I called it a reasonably early night.
Day 282 | March 4
Another travel day. Started the day with breakfast at De Lolita, a cafe near my place that I wish I had taken the time to try at the beginning of the month. Then we met with the rest of the team at the park and started heading to the airport. On the way we stopped at a really nice equestrian center, Equus. Some folks rode but I didn’t want to get all “horsey” before the flight so I just hung out in the cafe and worked. Then on to the airport for an easy flight to Lima. My place in Lima is quite nice, close to the ocean and being on the 16th floor it has some great views.
Day 281 | March 3
Began the day with the monthly ritual of packing up my entire life. You’d think over the course of a year of doing this that I’d have gotten faster at the process. But fitting all of my belongings into two carry-on bags requires a pretty consist two hours of meticulous packing. After that I worked from home until it was time for our farewell party at La Mayoria. Kind of an interesting concept of a place; it’s a restaurant up in the mountains but they also have animals and mid-meal they had horses out on the floor doing dressage and a guy singing… a lot going on. But neat place and the views of Medellin were gorgeous.