Day 73 | August 7

Pro tip: I don’t care how full you are, if you’re going to drink scotch all day long don’t skip breakfast. By the end of the day yesterday I was feeling it a little. So today I made sure to hit breakfast at my hotel hard, cereal, yogurt and full English breakfast.

Lagavulin Sensory Experience
Lagavulin Sensory Experience

The first stop today is Lagavulin, my favorite whisky and basically the whole reason I came up to Islay. I did the tour and their “Sensory Tasting Experience.” The tour was pretty standard. One thing that has struck me about all of these places is how small they are. Lagavulin is four stills, two wash stills and two spirit stills. That’s the whole outfit. Oh, also worth mentioning, Islay has a really laid back attitude. At one point our guide dipped a cup into their nearly finished wash (just the barely, yeast and water before it goes to distillation) and passed it around so we could all have some. Kind of weird… just like “barley-y water.” The sensory tasting experience was interesting. In addition to drams of their various “expressions” they had deconstructed the various flavors and aromas of whiskey into little vials for comparison. The bottles on the left contain vanilla, malted barely, sherry infused oak, sea salt, peat, souchong tea and dried figs. The idea was you could compare each element to the flavors in each whiskey on the right. Kind of a neat idea. And now I have a box full of the constituent elements of scotch so… yeah, that’ll come in handy?

The approach to Ardbeg
The approach to Ardbeg

I wanted to hit Ardbeg but they didn’t have any activities that fit into my schedule. They are just a short walk from Lagavulin and they actually have a cafe at their distillery so I opted instead to just walk over their for lunch. The Ardbeg distillery is easily the most picturesque of the ones I visited. I had lunch there, and conducted my own informal Ardbeg tasting.

Taste of whisky on the malting floor.
Taste of whisky on the malting floor.

The last stop of the day and of my little tour was Kilchoman which I had never even heard of before my trip. It’s the smallest distillery on Islay and just restarted about ten years ago. It’s located on a farm and they grow their own barely right on the grounds as well. Since they are newer they don’t have the age on their whisky yet but they have been winning all kinds of awards already and I really enjoyed all the different varieties we tried. I’ve never seen this in The States but if I do, it could become the scotch I use to bring people around to liking whisky. They have a great setup with their distillery too, farmhouse feel, little cafe, nice tasting area. It was easily my favorite tour just because the place was so small.

I had to change hotels for this last night so I moved over to The Islay Hotel in Port Ellen. It was nicer than the Brigend Hotel but it lacked the charm, I thought. Both Freddie and Stewart had mentioned the Ardview Inn to me as a “crackin’ pub” in town so I thought I’d go see what a truly local pub was like not expecting anyone to be in there on a Sunday afternoon. It was quite rowdy! So I just had a quick drink and rolled out. I later saw a comment on FourSquare that referred to it as “slightly less soul crushing than the White Hart” which really made me want to find the White Hart. I had dinner back at the hotel and called it a night.

Day 72 | August 6

It was quite nice to wake up in a spacious, soft bed by the ocean this morning. To top it off my first whisky visit wasn’t until noon so I had time to drink a ton of coffee and catch up on some work in the morning. Since the entirety of my stay consists of going to distilleries I’m having to be driven around. So, Islay Taxis, and Freddie and Stewart deserve some credit for taking me around the island all weekend.

Bruichladdich Warehouse Tasting
Bruichladdich Warehouse Tasting

My schedule was based mostly on availability of tours and tastings so my first stop was at Bruichladdich (Brooke-LAD-ie) for their warehouse tasting experience. I’ve not been a big Bruichladdich drinker previously but I really enjoyed the visit there. I signed up for their warehouse tasting experience where I was expecting a rather run of the mill tasting much like I’d done at other distilleries and wineries. I was pleasantly surprised. They basically took us back to the warehouse, gathered us around three casks and drew drams right off the casks for everyone. They didn’t bother with any of the tasting pretense either, we just sat around and drank the whiskey and chatted. It was a nice approach. I’ll spare you the technical details on scotch except to say… I found Bruichladdich interesting because their Octomore scotch is the most peaty on the island, that is to say their malt gets the highest smoke PPM before distillation. However, this doesn’t come through in the Scotch (to me as much) because of the design of their stills.

I mean... everyone has seen this picture, right?
I mean… everyone has seen this picture, right?

The next stop was Laphroaig (right click > add to dictionary) which I think is maybe the one folks are most familiar with. Here I did the tour as well as the tasting. Laphroaig is one of the few (two I think?) distilleries on the island that still has it’s own operating malting floor. Most of the others get their malting done in Port Ellen. The tour and tasting was neat but the really fun thing about Laphroaig is the whole “friends of Laphroaig” thing that they do. Devotees will know that if you buy a bottle and send the certificate in they will deed you a small plot of land on the distillery property. If you turn up they’ll set you up with the GPS coords for your plot, some wellington boots to trudge through the peat to get there and a little flag from your native country. Luckily I chose to do this right as a downpour started… good times.

Two fairly aggressive tastings was about all I had in me for the day (or there weren’t time slots left anywhere… whatever) so after Laphroaig it was back to the hotel to rest, dry out and then have dinner.

Day 71 | August 5

Getting to Islay is actually rather difficult. Especially if you have to be on the ground dialed into things for work at certain times as I do. So today is spent traveling. Early morning flight out of Gatwick up to Glasgow. I have to say, the security at Gatwick is quite fancy. All automated stuff and facial recognition. Despite that it still takes forever because I get hung up because they think my fancy laser cut, steel comb (Thanks Dad) is a knife. Get through that, short flight up to Glasgow and then an eight hour layover. I spend the day in their “lounge” working before my flight to Islay where I think we spent a total of… 15 minutes actual flight time. This is despite the fact that it’s like a five hour drive. Finally land on Islay, meet my driver for the weekend and head to my hotel the Bridgend Hotel. Which is a cute, no frills B&B more than anything. This place and the petrol station down the way are the only things on this part of tehe island. So I’m grateful when the girl at the desk inform me that they had booked me a table for dinner that night unbidden… because no where else to eat. They have Lagavulin for $5 a glass so I have that and their fresh caught Islay seafood platter which was quite good and included… just about everything before heading to sleep.

Day 70 | August 4

Productivity has not been nearly where it needs to be the past couple of days and tomorrow I’m leaving for Islay so once again today I’ve just buckled down and worked on finalizing that trip and getting some other things done. Some of which are annoyingly time consuming without the processing power of my old desktop. Had a quick bite in our restaurant and then attempted to take the train to Gatwick airport so I’d be near by for my early flight in the morning.

Holy crap! So glad I did that. Leg one of the journey is fine, hoof it up to our train station with my bags and take the Overground out to where I’m supposed to change trains. Hustle over to my platform and waiting… Train is delayed due to a “delay” (their precise words). No worries, I sit down and wait. It finally turns up and it’s a complete madhouse. People packed to the gills. Well the board says another one is coming in 15 so I figure I’ll just wait. Naturally… that train never shows up either. I find an alternate, slightly slower, train that’s still going to Gatwick. That one is delayed as well. Finally a train pulls in (that I thought wasn’t supposed to even stop at our platform, or so the sign said) and I see a bunch of people rushing on yelling that this one is going to Gatwick so I follow. Well it takes me all of one stop to realize that this train is not going to Gatwick and is, in fact, heading in the total opposite direction. Finally, I say “fuck it” get off and call and Uber to take me to my hotel… which I should have done in the first place.

Dropped off at my hotel for the evening, safe and sound. It’s right across from the terminal so it’ll be easy to catch a 6:30 flight in the morning. Checking in and they can’t find my reservation! I show them my reservation number. “Oh, you want the Premier Inn.” Confused I take a step back and eye the sign behind the counter which reads… “Premier Inn.” I look at this girl in confusion. Turns out there’s actually two and I’m at the wrong one but if I go outside and look up I’ll see the big “Premier Inn” sign and that’s where I want to be. Unfortunately, that’s the exact process that led me to THIS Premier Inn but whatever. Off I go into the night, trudging over highways and through medians with my bags before finally making it to my Premier Inn!

Day 69 | August 3

Another morning out with a free walking tour in London. My vague understanding was that this was the same company that did the walking tours we did in Belgrade. Truth be told I liked the Belgrade tours better but that had more to do with the guides. I think I’ve mentioned that the Serbians are easily the nicest folks I’ve encountered so far. We walked around to all the predictably major tourist sites in Westminster; Trafalgar Square, St. James Park/Palace, Buckingham Palace, Westminster Abbey, Big Ben etc. The timing was such that we also got to see the changing of the guard. Which I thought was cool, I didn’t realize how much ground that ceremony actually covered. After that I had to rush up to our Bedford Square office to be in position for work… only to find that the internet there wasn’t working. I went to another place called the Timberyard which is a co-working/coffee place that was also awesome.  I spent the rest of the day there and in the evening just went and walked around town until I ended up down on the Thames at this place The Understudy which is at the national theater.. Had a few drinks there and then came home.

Day 68 | August 2

Having at least attempted to catch up on work yesterday I wanted to get out into the city today. In the morning some of us went to the British Museum, which a person could literally spend days in. Only having the morning I focused on their Egyptian galleries which are , as near as I understand these things, fairly renowned. As I was walking out I ran into a group who was headed over to Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese which is a famous old (1600’s?) English pub. In true London fashion it was raining the whole way so I ended up getting quite wet before we arrived. I think it helped me appreciate English cuisine because when you’re cold and wet nothing sounds better than steak and ale pie and a dark beer. After lunch I went over to The Hoxton Hotel which basically lets folks use their lobby as a co-working space. I’ll certainly be returning there. I’ve been needing a haircut since some time in Belgrade so in the evening I went to Ruffians to finally get my hair cut. It’s a cool place, little hipster for my taste but they handed me a beer as soon as I walked in so they met with my approval. I decided to keep the British Pub thing going (partly because I’d just spent something like $100 on a haircut) and I headed up the street to the Lamb & Flag for dinner.

Day 67 | August 1

The weekends where we change cities always set me back a bit on work. Between packing, unpacking and arrival and departure festivities I always lose so much time. That means today is rather uneventful. We had our city orientation meeting and for me the rest of the day was just spent with my head in my laptop trying to get ahead on work as well as plan some side trips. One of which is this coming weekend. I had a decent pizza for dinner in the restaurant in our building and that was that.

Day 66 | July 31

First day in London and the thing that strikes me as I walk outside… is that I wasn’t immediately hit by a wall of heat. In fact, it’s quite nice out. As with all first days my plan is to just wander aimlessly around and get my bearings. Despite my… extremely limited… exposure to all public transport thus far in my life I take the underground into the city and wander around. I hit some of the major tourist sites; Trafalgar Square, Big Ben, The Eye, Buckingham Palace etc. Nothing in depth, just strolling by to see where things are. I had lunch at Burger & Lobster, a place that only serves… burgers and lobsters. Foolishly I opted for the burger which was just ok. Then I made my way back to The Collective for our welcome event, which ended up being quite cool. We took a double decker bus tour through the city complete with champagne. After we were dropped off things went as they normally do and we hit as many pubs as possible before calling it a night.